The Queluz Palace, a lovely birthday cake.
A delicious little Versailles
It is often compared to the Château de Versailles. But the Palais de Queluz is a little more modest.
Nevertheless, it is a beautiful building that blends many styles in a green setting.
The Palais de Queluz is probably one of the last large-scale royal buildings to be constructed in Europe.
Work began in 1747 but was interrupted by the famous and terrible earthquake of 1755. As a result, the Palais de Queluz, the royal palace, has a curious shape: it seems to wind its way through the gardens.
The tallest buildings and the corner towers were not built, for fear of a repeat of the great earthquake.
Queluz is well worth a visit. It is the only palace of its kind, built with the last of the court’s wealth.
The palace is in Baroque and Rococo style. It was designed by the architect Mateus Vicente de Oliveira, and part of it by the Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Robillon.
For the record, Junot, Napoleon’s marshal occupying Portugal, had his sights set on installing the emperor there in the event of victory. But nothing went according to plan, and the French impact was limited to the planting of magnificent trees.
The Palace comes under the authority of the Parque de Sintra and is therefore integrated into the monumental complex of the town of Sintra.
A succession of rooms and surprising corners.
The Palace of Queluz is a little confusing in its design. The rooms follow one another in single file, a little monotonous but functional.
Just when you feel the boredom coming on, all of a sudden a right-angle junction takes you in another direction.
Sometimes larger rooms break the rectilinear rhythm of this efficient architecture.
For example, the gilded wooden throne room, which served as a ceremonial hall in the time of King Pedro II and his wife D. Maria I. It adjoins the beautiful music room, which has remained almost intact since it was built.
Above the pianoforte (a rare instrument that is the forerunner of the piano) is the portrait of Maria I.
This queen was known as ‘the mad queen’. Suffering from an unidentified illness, she gradually shut herself away in her madness.
Appearance, parties and games: the end of a regime
Pedro III gave sumptuous parties here. D. Joao VI made it his residence on his return from Brazil. The palace was also home to D. Miguel during the 4 years of his absolutist government. Pedro IV chose it as his final resting place, as he was born here.
The throne room
This is the most important room in the palace. It is covered in mirrors – hence the comparison with Versailles and its famous Hall of Mirrors.
The gilded woodwork and painted stucco, as well as the admirable chandeliers, give the room a luxurious feel. Giant Atlanteans appear to support the structure.
The flats of Princess D. Maria Benedita.
The wife of Crown Prince D. José, 15 years younger than her, became Princess of Brazil. D. José died young and she became known as the Widowed Princess.
The corridor of azulejos :
This is also known as the Corridor of the Sleeves (probably because of the glass covers that protected the candles). The entire room is covered in figurative azulejos representing the seasons, the continents and mythology.
Rooms to seduce, to live in and to die in
The Ambassadors’ Hall.
A magnificent chequered floor welcomes visitors. The armchairs in the centre give it the air of a throne room. The room was originally used for concerts. It was then transformed by Pedro and Maria into a room for receptions and credenzas.
D Quixote’s astonishing bedroom
So named because of the paintings depicting the life of D. Quixote de la Mancha by Cervantes. It is famous for being the birthplace of 7 of the 9 children of D. João VI and D. Carlota Joaquina .
However, it is also a burial chamber: D. Pedro, the first emperor of Brazil and king of Portugal died here at the age of 35, a victim of tuberculosis.
Enchanting gardens: the treasure of Queluz
The Palais de Queluz is also famous for its gardens, which are often compared to those at Versailles, even if the proportions are not the same.
The green breathing space is remarkable. A succession of formal gardens, labyrinths, groves, fountains, streams and ponds dot the area around the palace.
Its grand canal is unique. The river was diverted to make it navigable. Princes and princesses, as well as kings and queens, took to the water in boats.
The canal is known as the ‘azulejos’ because of the earthenware that decorates it, the pride of the palace.
Don’t miss the grand exterior staircase of the Robillon pavilion, named after the French architect who succeeded Mateus de Oliveira, who was requisitioned to rebuild Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755.
The Neptune garden, one of the upper gardens, adjoins the D.Maria I pavilion, the most recent in the Queluz palace, built in 1789. Like the building itself, it has been meticulously restored. It’s a remarkable place to be: since 1940, it has been the home of world leaders on official visits to Portugal.
For www.libonne-affinités.com it was a pleasure to stroll through the alleys of the park
Queluz, the last fires of royalty
The sumptuous festivities that were once held in the palace have long since come to an end.
However, Parque de Sintra regularly organises small costume shows to liven up the tour. Songs and dances are added to the tour.
These staged tours take place on certain days only.
Check the Parques de Sintra website for dates. https://www.parquesdesintra.pt/pt/parques-monumentos/palacio-nacional-e-jardins-de-queluz/
The palace is open from 9am to 6pm and the gardens until 6.30pm. (last entrance at 5.30pm)
Please note that the ticket office closes between 12 noon and 1 p.m., but there is a ticket machine.
Palace price: 10 euros
Garden price: 5 euros
Discounts for young people, seniors and families.
Good to know: the palace is accessible by train from Rossio station in Lisbon. A short walk then takes you directly to the building.
Email:info@parquesdesintra.pt
Tel:+351 21 923 73 00
